Jeff Bradshaw - Winter to Spring-New Details Shared

Oakley's Jeff Bradshaw has become one of the Delta's newest up and coming Pro's in the last couple of years. I had my first opportunity to fish with Bradshaw a year ago and was really impressed with his approach and attention to detail. Bradshaw has been able to send a lot of time on the Delta, living just minutes from the water. New to the sport by many standards, Bradshaw has bass fished for a total of 18 years and has fished bass tournaments for ten years, concentrating primarily on the California Delta as well as many of the Northern California lakes. Bradshaw, like many, is a family man who enjoys sharing the safe comfort of the 2001 Ranger 520DVX with his son Garrett. I'm sure Garrett has explored all of the spacious storage space under its large front deck. The key to Bradshaw's success is his attention to detail that has given him the insight to develop an approach that is extremely effective. Wherever you fish, the current, weather and baitfish can really influence how the fish respond to different baits and where they set-up. Bradshaw's understanding of fish movement will open the eye's of the most experienced Delta angler and allow Delta visitors some insight into a tidal fishery that is sometimes tough to crack. This is how I approach winter/Spring on the delta from my experience. Others may totally disagree but this is how I fish it....

Bradshaw's explains, "Winter on the delta is comprised of different stages, kind of like spring, and each one is dictated by water temperature. Baitfish location, storm fronts, fog, water clarity and outside air temperature will really affect daily patterns as well this time of year". Bradshaw breaks down his theories on how he approaches fishing Delta bass into several stages that are affected by water temperature and then current. Bradshaw explained, "The first stage of winter is right after fall and the water is typically somewhere between 47-52 degrees. That's when the fish start staging into their winter areas out of the current. These fish can still be caught on their staging routes by cranking or throwing spinnerbaits from the fall bite but flipping will usually get real good now as the fish will tend to want a more vertical presentation rather than a horizontal one". When I flip this time of year I usually use a 3/8 oz Bobby D jig with plastic pork and may switch to a ½ oz jig if the current is strong in the area I am fishing or I want a faster fall with the bait to trigger strikes. I use a 7 ½' Kistler flipping/pitching rod with 20# Berkely Big Game line or at times I will use 50# spiderwire braided line. The areas Bradshaw targets are typically large weed beds located between current and slack current areas. "These fish will be on the deeper edge of the weeds until the afternoon sun warms the rocks or tulles (if the fog lifts) behind the weeds and on a high tide there's times they will get right on that cover where the water is a bit warmer," says Bradshaw. Bradshaw continued, "If this warming doesn't happen, the fish will have tendency to stay deep, remember though on those high tide periods to check right in the cover as you may be missing an opportunity". As the cold foggy conditions of winter take grip on the Delta waterways, typically the bite is very tough. Bradshaw looks at this as the second stage of winter when the water reaches 44-46 and the majority of the fish will be found in their winter haunts, like dead end sloughs or any place out of the current. Bradshaw uses his knowledge of how fish relate to current to find specific areas during the toughest conditions of the year. "These areas require some deeper water nearby and structure for the fish to hold onto. This is when guys typically use plastics or jigs and fish real slow". Bradshaw brings up a good point that many anglers miss, "Remember the crawdads will go into hibernation during the winter and the shad or other little fish will become their main forage". During this stage of winter I will switch to a pork trailer instead of plastic. I feel the pork gives you a little more action from the bait and the added bulk can help as well.

Turning the corner from the coldest conditions of the year brings us to what Bradshaw refers to as "The third stage of winter". Bradshaw describes, "This third stage is when the water starts to warm back up to 48-52 degrees again and stays there for a few days in a row". Bradshaw continues, "These fish will leave their winter haunts and start to migrate towards their spawning areas. They can be found along their migration routes and on structure adjacent to spawning flats. I like to flip Bobby D jigs all day this time of year because the crawdad's are coming out of their winter holding areas and start to become the main food source once again". I may switch back to plastic pork if the fish seem aggressive or if I am running around allot checking spots.

This leads into the beginning of the spring spawning season, which is also comprised of three stages: the pre-spawn, spawn and post spawn. It's no secret as the fish enter the Pre-spawn there are some monsters caught, especially in the first cycle of the pre-spawn period on the Delta. Bradshaw said, "Pre-spawn fish can start to be caught right at the tail end of winter and these are usually when some of the largest fish of the year on the delta will be found. Traditionally February is when this starts and the first set of spawning fish of the year can be found in March if the water is warm enough, they will come up with the full moon. These are the largest fish but smallest group as far as numbers go". For years the months of February and March have produced some big fish. I will still flip jigs this time of year but will also start throwing weightless plastics such as sluggo's, senko's and flukes fished on a Kistler 6'10" "Senko Special" with 20# Berkley Vanish fluorocarbon line. The majority of the spawning activity will take place in the April though June. "Typically May/June will be the end of the spawn period on the delta. One important thing to note is that temperature is the key; bass like to spawn in or close too 65-degree water. This will first occur in dead-end sloughs and Marina's. As the season progresses, the water temp in these locations warms past this optimum level and the fish will start seeking other areas within their comfort zone. Usually they will be areas just out of the current" according to Bradshaw. As the water continues to warm, I will start flipping less and start using more reaction baits such as Bobby D spinnerbaits and buzzbaits or crankbaits, especially when there are post spawn fish feeding.

On the Delta during the early spring months many anglers like Bradshaw can target the pre and post spawn fish at the same time for consistent success. "Since post-spawn starts right after the first set of big fish comes off their beds in late March and continues through July, obviously the months of May through July will have the majority of post-spawn fish". This is a time of year where seasoned Delta pro's like Barrack, Tyler, Lee and up and coming anglers like Bradshaw can really do some damage. Bradshaw believes, "Understanding what the fish are doing and why, throughout their seasonal changes, is the key to consistently locating them". Without years of experience, many anglers never consider, when determining fish locations within seasonal transitions, current velocity and how it affects the fish. Combining the knowledge of how fish relate to water temperature through the season and current is what separates the best Delta anglers from the rest of the field. "When the fish are feeding they will position themselves in ambush locations to attack baitfish, crawdads or whatever the current will bring their way. The more active the fish are the more they will be located in or near heavy current. This goes in conjunction with warmer water periods" explains Bradshaw. During cooler water periods the fish will be out of heavy current areas for the most part, but may be close to current if still water areas are close by. Bradshaw continues his explanation, "The Velocity of the current will play a part in fish location as well as how active the fish will typically be. What I mean by Velocity of the current is the actual speed the water is moving along the bank". There are contributing factors that those visiting the Delta need to keep them in mind when locating fish or determining the level of activity to expect at that particular tide. Bradshaw reminds us to look at irregularities along the bank, such as points, rock outcroppings, isolated wood or anything that protrudes from an otherwise bare bank will make the water condense as it passes by and increase the velocity of the water as it passes, creating an eddy on the opposite side. "These are great ambush locations," exclaimed Bradshaw and these are great places to throw a crankbait or Bobby D spinnerbait as the fish you will find here are usually active and willing to hit reaction type baits. If the water is warm enough I will throw a Bobby D ½ oz buzzbait in these same areas as well.

Understanding the tide will help you understand which part of the tide to target. The moon phase dictates the ebb and flow of the tide, which occurs twice in a 24-hour period, also how high and low it will go each day. The closer to a full moon, the quicker the tide will come in and go out relative to the peak high or low tide. This also holds true for a new moon as well. The further you go from these periods, the slower the tide will come in and go out relative to the peak high and low tide periods. Also, the tide will stop moving at the dead high and low tides, and then the water velocity will gradually increase as the tide changes. Bradshaw says, "There will be a point at which the bass will feed the best each tide, which usually occurs within the first hour and a half after the switch of a tide and the hour prior to the switch as well". On many banks the tide will reach velocities (speed) which will position the fish in eddy's or cuts that are just out of the current. Bass don't want to fight the current if they don't have to (it's kind of like you and I, the drive thru takes less energy yet still gets you fed). Bradshaw adds, "Remember to concentrate on the ambush points where the active fish are going to be located".

Bradshaw's tools for success include 1/4oz. speedtraps and Norman DD14 Crankbaits both fished on a Kistler #KCBCM7 7' composite cranking rod or Kistler #KCBS7 7' graphite crankbait rod with 15 pound Berkley Big Game line, Bobby D Limit Jigs in 3/8 oz. with rattles in black/blue, brown/red or brown/purple fished on a Kistler 7 ½' flipping/pitching rod with 20 pound Big Game line or 50# Spiderwire Braid, 5" sluggo's or senko's fished on a Kistler #KSS610 "Senko Special" with Berkley Vanish fluorocarbon line. I also frequently use 1/2 oz. Bobby D Spinnerbaits in chart/white fished on a Kistler #KSBS69 "Spinnerbait special" rod with 15 pound Berkley Big Game line and Bobby D 1/2 oz. buzzbaits in black or white both with silver metal blades" fished on Kistler 7' cranking rod with 20 pound test Berkley Big Game line.

There are so many factors to consider on the Delta with what seems to be so much cover, using this knowledge anglers can have a much better understanding of where to start there search for success of this fabulous waterway.

Jeff's sponsors include: Oasis Marine, Ranger Boats, Mercury Marine, Kistler Custom Fishing Rods, Bobby D Limit Lures, Berkley Fishing Line and Toro Irrigation.

- Dan Mathisen

GOTTA LOVE THE WINTER BITE! - Amber Russo

All of us summer-time, power-fishermen dread the winter season. You can't throw a top water. You can't throw the wake bait. Can't burn the LV 500 down a bank in your tank top. You're pretty much limited to a handful of baits, foul weather gear, and three presentations...SLOW, SLOWER, AND EVEN SLOWER.... 

BE SAFE
If you're going to fish in the winter, you have to have the proper gear to withstand the cold, and you have to have a life jacket on at all times! All it takes is a push on the trolling motor to lose your balance. In the 46 degree water, if you go in with all your gear on, it's not a going to turn out good. So, first and foremost, be safe. 

FINESSE FISHING
Finesse fishing doesn't mean you have to  hit the water with a big-ass spinning real in your hand, throw a drop shot, and let it sit there for an hour as snot freezes to your face!  It can be more exciting than that!  I will not use a spinning reel for any of my finesse fishing unless I'm on lake Shasta!!  I use a Powell 703 with a bait caster, 10 to 12 lb test fluorocarbon, a 1/0 off set hook with a Texas rigged margarita mutilator or Aarons Magic Worm, and my weight. I never miss a bite. You should do whatever is comfortable for you. Just know that you don't have to use spinning reels and 6 lb test to drop shot. 

The most important thing when finesse fishing in the winter is your rod!  You must use a very sensitive rod to feel the bass pick up your bait. They're not aggressive. The bite is very soft. I recommend Powell rods because I think they make the most sensitive rods on the market.   

TARGET AREAS:
Bass go to deep water when it's cold and shallow water when it warms up. You should target areas where bass have quick access to deep and shallow water such as edges and tule berms. Flip a jig along those drops and work it slowly from shallow to deep. Look for structures such as peat bogs, sunken boats, dead vegetation, and rock piles.  If you catch one, DO NOT LEAVE!! Fish tend to school up in the same areas and do the same thing, so if you catch one it's not alone! When it's cold bass are not active. They will find stable water and suspend in places like the very bottom of the floor, behind some sort of submerged structure, or on the point of a berm or island. If there is a warm front, target dead-end sloughs and marinas.    

WHAT TO LOOK FOR
The Delta is full of habitat, so how do you sift through it all and find bass? Fish will find warmer water in the winter.  Two natural heat sources on the Delta are rocks and dead vegetation. Rocks hold heat so, first thing in the morning, fish the first rockbank the sun hits. Another natural heat source is dead vegetation, especially dead tulles and crispy hyacinth.  Tules and hyacinth are very beneficial in the summer and the winter because they are the  most oxygen-producing plants on the Delta. The frost kills the exposed areas of tules and hyacinth which absorbs the heat while the roots are still alive, producing oxygen. This, along with all the crawdads and bluegill living in the roots, makes it a prime spot for a bass to marinate under. So..... PUNCH IT! That's right!  I said punch in the winter! Bust out your punching rod -- Powell 766 is my recommendation, with your 65lb test braid, a 4/0 hook and a pegged 1.5 oz bullet weight. Put your black and blue beaver on that bad boy and punch the hell out of the dead plants! I don't know about you, but I think punching is a lot more exciting then throwing a drop shot!!  

BEST BAITS
The 3 most effective lures in the winter are your black and blue jig trailed with the hematoma or penetration beaver, your margarita mutilator, Aaron's Magic Roboworm, and your Ghost Minnow rip bait! Your presentation must be slow! The body temperature of a bass is the same temp as the water so they're cold as hell! Do everything slow and eventually they will bite.   Winter time is also a good time to tie on the biggest bait you have and chuck it in areas that drop off right along the edge of the weeds.  A big bass is a hungry, lazy opportunist that wants a big meal using the least amount of energy as possible however they will chase when they see something worth eating such as a shad or a blue gill. If you're going for the one big bite I recommend using the bass Huddleston. Swing your Huddy out there and work it back very, very, very slowly. If you get a bite, GET THE NET. It's going to be a pig!   

REACTION BITE IS ON FIRE RIGHT NOW!
On a warm day when the water is glass, go to a dead-end slough and rip the bank. Start from the weed line and reel it slow. Then do a nice long rip, let it float almost to the surface, then reel it again. If you see a pocket, throw it on the side where the current is not hitting. Then work it towards you slowly!

The fish tend to stack up in the dead-end sloughs. They do this because a warm front will warm up a body of water that does not have a lot of flow faster than an area that does. And any source of heat is where a bass will be. 

Another reaction bite to try is slow rolling a deep diving, black and red crank bait. Throw along the rock banks and let it tick the rocks a little when you're retrieving. When you tick the rocks a bass will think it's a crawdad's claws hitting the rocks, and it usually catches their attention. Remember, this reaction bite is a slow reaction. If you work it too fast the bass will not strike.   

A STEP AHEAD
Last but not least, winter is a good time to put your rod down and utilize your Lowrance fish finder. The water is glass in the morning and, other than some duck hunters, you pretty much have the house to yourself, so go out and explore! Get familiar with the habitat,  study the bottom, and mark waypoints when you see beds or good spawning areas. That way, when spring comes you'll be ahead of the game!  The Delta is challenging but that's what makes it fun.  Once you figure out the winter pattern you will never dread another winter fishing season again.  Good luck!  And always...catch and release. 

Amber Russo 

Striper Winter Wonderland……

Brrrrrrrrr. Frosty, Foggy, Icy, and water temps in the low to mid 40's. Sounds like the recipe for a disastrous fishing day. Thank goodness we have the Linesides in this system!! Stripers can definitely pick up the slack during the winter season. For the next couple of months when most other fish species are "sleeping" the Striper can help you get in your fishin'fix!

Leave the top water stuff at home until February. Through the years I have caught some very impressive Stripers on top water, even when the water temp was in the low to mid 40's. However, those bites are VERY far and few between, and many days you will throw up a goose egg. I recommend you stick with subsurface baits through the second week of February, they will provide more bites for you.

  The Basstrix Paddletail Swimbait in the 5 and 6 inch sizes, are a perfect choice for cold water Stripers. A standard pearl 5 inch swimbait can be a player too.  Stren Brute Strength or Trilene Big Game line in 15 lb or 20 lb, will work just fine. Both of these lines are extremely abrasion resistant, have the right amount of stretch, and are easy on the wallet. December through mid February is a "keep it simple", and or, "slow and steady", time period. Try not to have more than 3 rods on the deck during a winter session. Choose three sticks that will allow you to cover the 3 to 15 foot water column effectively. For example, I always rig the Basstrix Swimbaits on a 3/8 and ½ oz Blade Runner weedless jig head when targeting the 3 to 10 foot depths. I will use the exact same lure on two rods, the only difference being the weight of the lead head. Maintaining bottom contact, with an extreme s-l-o-w-r-o-l-l, can be very important when the fish aren't super aggressive. This allows me to cover the whole water column that I am targeting, and determine which zone the most aggressive fish are using.

If I am fishing a "clean ridge" or break line down to 15 feet, then I will opt for the ½ or ¾ ounce Spintrix head by Bladerunner. A "clean ridge" has a minimal amount of brush, vegetation, or snags on it. I prefer ridges and or break lines that have a three to eight foot, 45 to 90 degree slope on one side.  Many times the vibration and flash of the small willow leaf blade, located under the chin of the leadhead, is just what you need to trigger a strike from deeper lethargic fish. If there is little or no wind, I try to get the ½ ounce Spintrix to bump the bottom down to 15 feet. Wind becomes a big variable when using this technique. It is difficult to maintain bottom contact in a breeze over 10 miles per hour using a ½ ounce head. If the wind is in that 10 to 20 mph range, and the fish are eating in that deeper zone of water, I will opt for the ¾ ounce Bladerunner Spintrix head on 15 lb mono. I love fluorocarbon, but in windy situations, I always prefer standard monofilament. Fluorocarbon tends to backlash a lot more in the wind compared to standard monofilament. Keep in mind that to keep it from hanging up the ¾ ounce Spintrix has to be fished a little quicker than a 1/2 once head at these depths, therefore I don't get near as many bites with a ¾ ounce head as opposed to the ½ ounce size.

Keep your color schemes simple. Shad and natural baitfish colors excel for Stripers. It is hard to beat Pearl, Tennessee Shad, Hitch or Hologram Shad when using the Basstrix line of hollow belly baits. If the water has less than 2 feet of visibility, try dipping the tail of the bait in a bottle of chartreuse dye. 

If you are like me, and aren't real crazy about jerking a spoon in a vertical presentation all day long, give these swimbait techniques a try. Each bite you get will create more and more confidence in what you are doing. It may take a winter or two to get good at these presentations, however you will soon find yourself looking a little more forward to winter time fishing.

'Tis the Season To Get Froggy, Fa,la,la,lala,lala,la,la…. - Bobby Barrack

The fall Froggy bite on Clear Lake and the Delta is starting to roll. The Perfect Frog, Perfect Buzz, Buzzbait, Spook etc, can all be major players. Subsurface baits will usually generate more bites, however some of the most exceptional top water fishing of the year, will be available over the next couple of months. A stout rod, some 65# braided line, and a high speed reel are key components for a successful day of Froggy Fishin'. "Bobby's Perfect Frog Rod", from Falcon Rods, Lew's "Speed Spool" TP1SH or TS1SHMG ( both are 7:1 gear ratio reels), a spool of Stren 65# Sonic Braid, and a handful of Perfect Frogs and Perfect Buzz's, will have you moving in the right direction.

Very seldom will a top water bite last for the duration of a standard fishing day, but there will be "moments, or extended moments", during your fall season outing. Do not let the temperature gauge on your boat distract you from throwing the fore mentioned top water baits. Sudden drops in water temperature in a 24 or 48 hour period can put a dent in your surface bait venture for a day or two, but the top water bite will return with a more consistent weather pattern. Steady surface action can be expected until the water temperature gets into the low 50's. Low 50's??!!! You serious??!!!...Oh Yeah!….

Most guys are not aware of the "50+ degree top water bite", because most haven't thrown it during this period. Slowing things down is key. Burning a Perfect Buzz, or standard buzzbait from September through October can be very effective. If you try to carry this pattern through November, you may hit a roadblock. Slow each of these lures down as much as possible. If the bass are rolling, nipping, or not showing any interest at all, then opt for a "walking style" bait.

The Zara Spook, one of the most awesome top water baits of all time, is a fantastic top water choice during the fall months. Bone, Baby Bass and Okie Shad are great colors to try. Stripers, as well as Largemouth Bass, find the "walking" characteristics of this bait very appealing. If you find Largemouth relating to vegetation, then the Perfect Frog from Snagproof is hard to beat. Walking the frog in open water , but staying extremely tight to any available structure, is a great way to entice awesome strikes from extra large Bass.

Surface vegetation is usually dying back during fall months. If you look hard enough, you can usually find sporadic patches still in tact. Duckweed and Cladophora ("cheese"), are very good surface vegetations to locate. These canopies will be found in protected pockets facing to the South or East. The largest bass in the area will usually seek refuge under these mats, and will be focused on Bluegill as their primary forage. Largemouth that are primarily feeding on Bluegill, are usually a better quality fish, and find Brown Bullfrog extremely appealing. My favorite colors during this time frame are, Fred, Black, Cicada Tweety and Brown Bullfrog. Tweety and Brown Bullfrog are the colors that "I Want" them to eat, so I will always try them first. If I can get bit on Tweety and Bullfrog, the fish tend to average 2 to 3 pounds more than with any other color. If the fish are bumping, nudging or rolling on these two color schemes, then I will switch to Fred or Cicada. Fred and Cicada are the "safe" choices. The fish, if there is a frog bite on this particular day, will usually show an interest for Fred or Cicada. Fred has a blast of orange under the chin, which can be an attractor or deterrent. If the Largemouth continue to swirl on Fred and not commit fully, then tie on a Cicada.

Top water fishing through December 1st isn't for everyone. Discipline and good casting mechanics will greatly enhance your chances for a successful trip. Keep your casts low to the water to minimize the splash on entry, and try to figure out the tempo that the fish prefer, on this particular day. If you are fishing a particular top water bait at a slow tempo, then have a fish or two "chase" the bait as you retrieve it back to the boat for another cast….recognize this, and start BRINGING IT!!! That one "Fink", just "Ratted" on the rest of his crew, and may have just opened the door to one of your most memorable fishing days of the year.

"Turnin' Frogs Into Toads"

Bobby Barrack

Bluegill, Americas Number 1 Gamefish - Dan Mathisen

Probably the most sought after game fish nationally is the Bluegill ( Lepomis macrochirus). A great catch for young and old anglers alike yet often forgotten. Bluegills are found just about everywhere. In the lakes the abundant panfish can be found near shore in areas shaded by overhanging trees; sluggish shallow waters of sloughs, ponds, and reservoirs. They can really stack up in the Delta are usually those with little or no tidal influence.

For the most fun a nglers target bluegills primarily with ultralight equipment or fly gear. Really it doesn't even take that much equipment. When bobber and bait fishing there is nothing wrong with getting out the with the traditional cane pole on bobber set-up that can be purchased complete for around 10 or 12 bucks. Those with spinning or fly gear are often found using leaders in the half-pound to 3-pound class are common.

In the Foothill lakes, crickets are the most effective bait, bluegills will also bite mealworms, waxworms, redworms, earthworms, nightcrawler chunks and if you care to try maggots.

Larger bluegills sometimes grab the same size minnows that are used to catch Crappie. When taking the kids out and using worms, be careful not to put too much bait on the hook, as bluegills are accomplished thieves. Smaller pieces will force the fish to bite at the hook, resulting in more hookups.

Bluegill lures include mini jigs, small spinnerbaits, small in-line spinnerbaits, small grubs, small tube jigs, and miniature soft plastics. Many bluegill anglers tip jigs with a small cricket, piece of worm, or other bait. Bobbers are often used to suspend the lure or bait at the right depth and to detect the often-subtle bites.

Bobbers can be very simple and traditional or very high tech, like slip-floats or tip-up designs. When jig fishing, try a 1/32 ounce or smaller jig, with two wet flies or nymphs above it at 1 foot intervals. Bounce the jig on the bottom as you retrieve it, and the wet flies or nymphs will pick up fish that are suspended near the bottom. For very active fish, try a small yellow roostertail with a wind-wind-pause-wind-wind-pause rhythm. This is a super technique at Camanche!

Fly anglers use almost any dry fly or terrestrial and almost any nymph. There are also specially designed panfish popper flies, many of which can also be used with ultralight spinning tackle. The most popular terrestrial patterns are crickets, grasshoppers, foam spiders, and ants. A cool fly setup, especially at spawning time, is a panfish popper with a dropper line and a weighted nymph, such as a beadhead hare's ear. (This can be done using ultralight tackle, as well). Try popping and stopping at different speeds. When the fish are active, work the rig quickly and they'll strike the popper. When they're less active, just pop a few times and stop for up to 1 minute at a time. The nymph will swing down and suspend in front of their faces. They won't be able to stand it, especially if they're guarding a nest.

When fishing dry or floating flies, keep in mind that that bluegills may take much longer than trout to smack your fly. If you're not getting bit and you know the fish are there, try letting it sit a while longer, up to 1 minute at a time. I am no fly expert but I have experimented a time or two.

I know many anglers that are out to catch small bluegills as bait for bass or catfish or stripers, remember that it's often possible to catch bluegills on anything little that moves. As a kid, I used to catch bluegills off the end of a dock by gently vertical-jigging a size 16 golden treble hook with a salmon egg. Since bluegills are both bold and curious, this works anytime the fish are even moderately active.

This technique usually doesn't work during the spawn, as the fish do not congregate around docks when they are in the spawning mode.

Schools nearly out and soon the will be plenty of chances for kids to get out and have some fun bluegill fishing. Keep it simple, wear a life jacket and have fun.

- Dan Mathisen